“If a garden is open in winter, it’s definitely worth visiting.” Still-green fields, ripe persimmons hanging off bare branches, avenues of leafless trees with gnarly bark, crisp scents detectable in the cold, white and yellow bulbs poking through woodlands: this is winter in Tuscany. Tuscany is home to many magnificent gardens, and winter is a wonderful time to visit them. Winter reveals a garden’s structure and design, elements hidden in spring and summer, the ‘rhythm’ and flow, from its wild side to its calculated details: the silhouettes and shadows of the deciduous trees; paths that lead to spectacular overlooks, with cypresses looming in the distance; the contrast between soft surfaces and hardscape; the play of water and light; the role of pergolas, pots, urns and statues; the historic villa in the distance, the towering conifers; groupings of winter-flowering shrubs and evergreens that are overshadowed by their showier neighbours in the warmer months. There are blooms and colours, too: lush underplantings of hellebores and bergenias are in their prime in winter garden. The bright red, purple or yellow berries on the holly bushes pop alongside the strong shapes of magnificent evergreen topiaries. The air is clean and moist, and there are surprising scents of daphnes and viburnums planted near doorways and pathways. Free of crowds, the gardens are havens of peace and quiet—almost magical. Pull on your boots, embrace the chill and take a winter walk through some of Tuscany’s most beautiful gardens. Here are some of my favourites, open all winter, guaranteed to inspire and invigorate. Villa Garzoni (Collodi) An ornamental baroque garden set in a striking valley. The garden rises from a semi-circular parterre through terraced flights of stairs to a water cascade and up into the woods. November to February, open Monday–Saturday, 9am–noon and 2–5pm. www.villagarzoni.it Villa Reale di
“If a garden is open in winter, it’s definitely worth visiting.”
Still-green fields, ripe persimmons hanging off bare branches, avenues of leafless trees with gnarly bark, crisp scents detectable in the cold, white and yellow bulbs poking through woodlands: this is winter in Tuscany. Tuscany is home to many magnificent gardens, and winter is a wonderful time to visit them.
Winter reveals a garden’s structure and design, elements hidden in spring and summer, the ‘rhythm’ and flow, from its wild side to its calculated details: the silhouettes and shadows of the deciduous trees; paths that lead to spectacular overlooks, with cypresses looming in the distance; the contrast between soft surfaces and hardscape; the play of water and light; the role of pergolas, pots, urns and statues; the historic villa in the distance, the towering conifers; groupings of winter-flowering shrubs and evergreens that are overshadowed by their showier neighbours in the warmer months. There are blooms and colours, too: lush underplantings of hellebores and bergenias are in their prime in winter garden. The bright red, purple or yellow berries on the holly bushes pop alongside the strong shapes of magnificent evergreen topiaries. The air is clean and moist, and there are surprising scents of daphnes and viburnums planted near doorways and pathways. Free of crowds, the gardens are havens of peace and quiet—almost magical.
